wave forecast

When we want to go surfing, or even if we just like to watch the waves from the beach, we need to understand the forecasts and know what they show us. Understanding the wave forecast requires a kind of “translation” of the data that reaches us.

Wave height: This is the most basic measure. It refers to the northern distance of the wave, from the edge of the wave to its highest edge. When we know how to identify the height of the waves, we understand what the potential is for big or small waves.

Wave frequency: the time between waves. The higher the frequency, the higher the density of the waves, which can be especially important for surfers.

Wave direction: where do the waves come from? The direction affects the way they “break” and this can change the surfing experience.

Wind and its influence: The wind can affect the shape of the waves. When the wind is strong and coming from the sea towards the coast, the waves can be less tidy.

The water temperature: although not directly related to the size of the waves, it is important for planning the surf, choosing the right clothing and preparing properly.

Reading wave forecast maps: understanding the forecast maps is a preparation for the verbal forecast. The map graphically displays the data: wave height, wave direction, frequency and wind direction. Learn how to read the map to best understand the expected conditions.

Another Tip: It is always a good idea to compare several sources of wave forecasts. Conditions at sea change frequently so reading forecasts regularly can lead to better preparation.